Kebabs, biryani, etc. in Indian cities are included in the UNESCO food list

Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani and whipped cloud-like desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has always been a haven for food lovers, with locals and tourists alike raving about its cuisine.

Last month, UNESCO recognized it as a Creative City of Food – Add it to the curated list of global cities and inspire hope that it will highlight the delicious delicacies of Lucknow. With this title it joins a global network 408 cities More than 100 countries are committed to promoting “creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development”.

Tim Curtis, Director and Representative of UNESCO’s Regional Office for South Asia, said the recognition was “a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem”.

“It respects the city’s rich cultural heritage while opening up new avenues for international collaboration,” he added.

Lucknow is the second Indian city to feature in this coveted list of 70 global cities after Hyderabad in 2019.

My hometown’s recognition of this honor doesn’t come as a surprise to residents or food lovers—many of whom agree with celebrity chef Ranveer Brar: “Better late than never. It should have come sooner.”

With UNESCO recognition, my beloved, chaotic, eclectic city—the capital of India’s most populous state of Uttar Pradesh—is finally thrust into the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: a passion for food.

Madhavi Kuckreja, founder of Sanatkada Trust, who spearheads the Lucknow kitchen project, told the BBC that the city’s food has a unique flavor due to the slow pace and time required to cook it.

“‘What to cook and how to cook it?’ It’s an ongoing conversation in most households from the time you wake up to the time you go to bed. In fact, you will be judged on the quality of the food that comes out of the kitchen,” she said.

But this focus on food is not new, many of the dishes that define the city’s cuisine have been around for hundreds of years.

Nawabs City – popularly known as Nawab City, named after the wealthy Muslim rulers of the 18th and 19th centuries – is famous for its melt-in-your-mouth kebabs and unique biryani that is created, evolved and reached to sublime levels in their kitchens.

These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what would become Awadh cuisine (the region was then known as Awadh).

It was during this period that Lucknow’s most famous kebab was born. The mutton garoti kebabs that define the city among tourists are said to have been made to feed an old Nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs mince the meat with papaya, saffron and spices, making it so fine and silky that no chewing is required.

But perhaps the Awadh chef’s greatest contribution is the technique of slow-cooking Dum pukht, in which food is cooked slowly over low heat and the lid of the pot is tightly sealed with dough.

It was popularized in the 18th century during the reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah – who initiated a work-for-food scheme when the region was suffering from famine. A large pot of rice, vegetables, meat and spices is sealed to create a one-dish meal.

It is said that the Nawab smelled the aroma emanating from the pot and asked to taste it, and the dummy technique was officially adopted in his kitchen.

The late chef Imtiaz Qureshi, who revived and commercially popularized the technique in modern India, is considered a master of Awadhi cuisine and is the man behind today’s iconic Delhi restaurants Bukhara and Dum Pukht, both of which are listed Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List.

In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, chefs also create a range of dishes including kormas (curry), sheermal (saffron flatbread) and shahi tukda (bread pudding).

But there’s more to Lucknow than kebabs and biryani, the area is also a haven for vegetarians.

The traditional vegan dishes of the local Baniya community not only use seasonal ingredients, but also provide the city with a carefully curated selection of Indian desserts and sweets as well as unique street foods such as chaat (spicy, tangy fried snacks).

With small shops and kiosks on almost every corner, these little-known hidden gems are popular with locals.

In the heart of Hazratganj city, a large crowd has been milling around the Sharmaji tea stall since 5am, buying steaming cups of masala milk tea served in earthenware cups and fluffy buns smeared with hand-churned white butter.

Morning walkers, political strategists and journalists gather around this unassuming shabby hut, which has been in business since 1949 and is now a traditional tourist attraction.

For breakfast, head to Netram, a no-frills chain located in the old town of Aminabad. Opened in 1880, nearly 150 years ago, its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy sweets made from deep-fried fermented batter soaked in syrup) remain popular.

Its sixth generation owners – father Anmol Agarwal and sons Anoop and Pranshu – continue to maintain the process and craftsmanship behind every recipe. An automotive engineer by training, Pranshu is passionate about his legacy. “It’s in my blood. I wouldn’t want to do anything else,” he said.

The city also offers unique seasonal delicacies, such as winter makhhan malai, a unique cloud-shaped dessert. The production process is both scientific and complex. Chefs churn the milk by hand and then leave it out at night, exposed to dew, giving it an incredibly frothy texture.

On cold mornings, long queues of street vendors can be seen in old towns like Aminabad and Chowk. However, many people say that their children do not want to learn this art.

Chef Brar, who also hails from Lucknow, has been a clear advocate of Lucknow cuisine, often saying that the city’s rich gastronomic heritage puts it at the top of the list of Indian street food experiences. But he said the true value of the UNESCO recognition will only emerge if Lucknow can now raise awareness about its little-known eateries.

Ms Kukreja said every dish in Lucknow told a story – shaped by generations of food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants to conservative family recipes.

She hopes that the international acclaim will encourage more people around the world to learn about these stories and visit the city to taste Lucknow’s cuisine.