Bethlehem Christmas tree lights up for first time since Gaza war started

For two years during the Gaza war, all public Christmas celebrations were canceled in Bethlehem, the occupied West Bank – where Christians believe Jesus was born.

But after the recent ceasefire, the holy city decided to resume the celebrations this year, symbolized by the traditional lighting of a giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Church of the Nativity.

“Two years of silence is terrible; no Christmas, no work, no work,” said Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. “We all live here on tourism, which is down to zero.”

The mayor acknowledged that the idea of ​​resuming the celebrations was not without controversy, as suffering continues in Gaza – including for people in the tiny Christian community, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.

“Some people might say it’s inappropriate, and others might say it’s appropriate,” Mr. Carnavaty told me. “But deep down in my heart, I feel like this is the right thing to do because Christmas should never be stopped or canceled. This is our ray of hope.”

Locals – both Christians and Muslims – took selfies in front of a tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They were joined by a handful of foreign tourists.

The streets are now decorated with brightly colored lights and billboards advertising Christmas markets and children’s parties.

Local jewelry designer Nadya Hazboun said: “We are happy to have this tree in the first place and happy to see foreigners in Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in the true spirit.”

“This is where it all started, so we can be here to send a message to the world about what Christmas is really supposed to be. This year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it brings a beautiful message to the world.”

The neighboring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also plan to light Christmas trees in the coming days. The hotel has been largely vacant for the past two years, but has seen an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens from Israel, as well as some foreign tourists.

Angelica, a tourist from Russia, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. “I think everyone needs to come here at least once in their lives,” she told me.

“I hope a lot of people will come back soon because it’s a shame there aren’t many tourists. The only good thing is you don’t have to wait in long queues – you can come and see more things. When I was here before you had to queue for at least a few hours.”

Currently, the souvenir shops dotted around Bethlehem are doing little business, while tour guides are largely idle outside the cream-colored walls of the Church of the Nativity, which dates to the fourth century. Before the war in Gaza, it was often packed with people.

Hamza, a tour guide, worries that the constant news coverage will make people think the situation is still dangerous. He insisted it was safe.

“This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life,” lamented Hamza. “We want people to come back as before: from Europe, the Middle East, the United States, Latin America and all over the world. We start with the tree lighting, and then we wait.”

Unemployment has soared in Bethlehem over the past two years. Tens of thousands of Palestinian laborers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work since deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 sparked the war.

Meanwhile, the Palestinian Authority (PA), which governs parts of the West Bank, only partially pays civil servants. The Palestinian Authority relies on tax revenue collected by Israel, which withholds $1.76 billion, according to the United Nations trade and development agency.

Israel says it holds the funds because the Palestinian Authority pays Palestinian prisoners to incentivize attacks against Israelis. The agency, which has been facing international pressure to reform, said it had recently made changes to its benefits system

The grim economic outlook means that, despite the public events and religious observances now taking place, it will be a grim Christmas for many Palestinian Christians.

At the edge of Manger Square, a few customers wait in a row of shops to buy sizzling falafel balls.

“We are preparing for Christmas in one of the most difficult times as Palestinians and Christians,” said Alaa Salameh, owner of Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant that has seen its revenue plummet. These days, he says, many families can’t even afford falafel, a cheap traditional snack.

“Christians will try to celebrate according to their circumstances,” Mr. Salameh predicted. “Someone wants to take his child to a festival or a theater or something, but he doesn’t have the money to attend this celebration.”

In the cavernous grotto at the base of the Church of the Nativity, a local woman following a small Indian tourist group bent over and lit a nearby candle before a silver star that marked the spot where Jesus is said to have been born.

With tensions still high in the area, people in Bethlehem said they were praying for peace and for tourists to return to where Christmas began.